A Weekend in Rwanda

Coming here, I had no intention of traveling to Rwanda. Just over 20 years ago, between 500,000-1,000,000 Rwandans were killed in a genocide as fighting erupted between the Hutus and Tutsis. That is what I knew about Rwanda—it wasn’t a place I’d ever come near. No way would it be a weekend destination. Fast-forward to 2015 and that’s all changed.

Compared to Uganda, Rwanda is like paradise. Corruption is almost nonexistent. Motorcycle-taxis—one of the leading causes of death in Uganda—are limited to one passenger and are required to provide them with a helmet. Plastic bags, which ubiquitously litter “the Pearl of Africa”, are banned in Rwanda. When I stepped off the bus, I was astounded by the gorgeous roads. I'm telling you, I could not get over how nice these roads were!

Magnificent roads!!!

Okay, it might not look that spectacular to you, but spend a bit of time on the pothole-ridden, traffic-congested, crumbling highways of Uganda, and you might stare in awe as well.

That’s not to say it’s all hunky-dory. These utopian changes are only possible with the iron fist of their leader President Paul Kagame. For instance, every last Saturday of the month the country closes down and citizens are required to perform community service in the morning and early afternoon. Uniformed men bearing rifles stand on the street corners to enforce the law. This was the scene I encountered as I ran through the streets of Kigali—the capital city. Big Brother was watching. I was amazed with Rwanda’s post-genocide prosperity, but as my feet pounded the pristine pavement, I began to feel uneasy. Prosperity at what cost?

Public infrastructure was fantastic but homes were overcrowded along the hillsides

After discussing the matter with Tom, my newfound friend at the hostel (a PhD student with a passion for East African history), I got the whole picture. In Tom’s opinion, it can’t last. He cited political kidnappings and killings to silence government opposition. “How long can you suppress a nation?” he asked. I wasn't so sure. In the United States, we value individual liberties above all else. But in a place where neighbors hacked each other to death just two decades ago, what would you part with for safety and prosperity?

Rwanda is a beautiful place and it is developing faster than any other country in the region by leaps and bounds. The government—controlling as it may be—appears well-intentioned. So what’s next? Is this the idyllic benevolent dictatorship that people dream about, or will Rwandans suddenly refuse to bear the oppression any longer? It seems only time will tell what the future will hold for this nation, but I, for one, am hoping for the best.